Monday, October 22, 2007
Last One
I had a blast. This trip was the most rewarding thing I have ever done and I am so grateful that I was given the opportunity to do it. I'm thankful for all the encouragement I received and I'm glad so many of you were along for the ride. I don't think I would have finished if it hadn't been for knowledge of so many people counting on me.
While I was at Cape Spears (still absorbing the moment) I bumped into a gentleman who played the W5 game with me, (who, what, where, why, how long.) He was a fellow cyclist and one of his comments really bothered me. Not for myself but for him. He said that this was the highlight of my life that I will be slightly disappointed with everything else because nothing else can measure up. I disagree. This was a small part of my life. Something I can look back at and smile...or cringe. Something to add to my core, my base. I now know my base is both stronger and more vulnerable than I ever realized. A base that I know can hold almost everything life throws at me good or bad. But 'little-miss-independent' is no longer afraid to ask for a little support if she feels like she is going to crack. No contrary to his beliefs, to me this trip was a few month self-awareness course. Cape Spears was just a podium to cross on my way to the rest of my life.
Thursday, October 18, 2007
Home Again
I'm very glad to be home. I'm slowly falling back into routines though nothing has been routine yet as the whole family readjusts and celebrates me being home. My sister and nephew spent the night last night and we were up until the wee hours visiting. Both kids and their significant others were here as well. It nice to see the family growing and evolving. Phil's brother, wife and maybe their kids are coming tonight as well as few friends. So I imagine it will be another late night.
Two weeks ago, near the end of my trip a good friend of ours died suddenly of a heart condition. Phil agonized over whether to tell me or not. He knew I would have come home immediately. He choose to wait until I had finished my journey and was home. I respect his decision. I'm glad I was given the chance to finish my trip but I feel bad for not being here to support my girlfriend. Phil has a business trip that is taking him to Toronto at the end of the month. After that we will try to get down to Kamloops to give our condolences and support.
It is almost surreal falling back into a normal routine that doesn't require being on a bicycle for eight + hours a day. Readjusting my eating habits will take a conscious effort as well. Picking up a power bar and thinking, "Its got 300 calories put it down." Instead of, "Its only got 300 calories I'm going to need to eat several of these." Even with my effort to eat well I lost just shy of thirty pounds. Instead of I left my heart in San Fransisco my song will be I left my boobs in Eastern Canada. The skinniest jeans I own I can get on and off without undoing the button or zipper. I'm refraining from running out and buying a whole new wardrobe (as tempting as it is) until my body has a chance to adjust to life at home.
Monday, October 15, 2007
Are We There Yet?
Sunday, October 14, 2007
When Nature Calls
Today 115.5 Total 8953.8
Well it was bound to happen. I had just hoped it wouldn't. I was caught with my pants down. When it comes to one of the most basic functions of the human body I'm at a distinct disadvantage over my male counterparts. They can find somewhere halfway discrete take a camera with them and if a car rushes by they can pretend they are taking a shot. I don't have that luxury. If I'm caught its pretty obvious I'm not picking daisies. Though sometimes this is a side effect of what I am doing. I usually find a spot in tall grass or in the woods, crouch down, do what needs to be down, pull my pants up and then stand up. In this process I inadvertently usually end up with half a herb garden in my drawers. The amazing thing is unless its particularly spiny I don't notice until nature calls again and the bouquet of flowers, grasses and leaves fall out.
It was very cold, with a steady drizzle and a strong head wind today. As luck would have it it was also one of those days where nature seemed to call a lot more frequently than usual. I was cold, sore and tired of trying to find the perfect spot. Traffic had been light so I thought what the heck. I was in a spot where I had a long clear view of traffic coming both ways. My hands were very cold and I was soaked so my skin was also damp and cold. I thought I had successfully pulled it off when a truck came barrelling over the rise. I quickly tried to pull my pants up. This was a mistake. With my wet skin and wet clothes when I pulled the bike shorts and outer pants up at the same time they rolled them selves into a tight knot that came slight below decencies sake both front and rear. As my wooden fingers began futile trying to unravel the mess I came to the realization that I didn't have time to totally unknot my pants. I did what most women would do, I focused on the front. The truck was almost on me as I pull the front my pants as high as I could in the front while my entire back half was still totally exposed. I then angled my body to give them as little view as I could manage under the circumstances.
To their credit the truck never slowed nor did they hurle rude comments out the window. The driver of the truck had a huge ear splitting grin on his face but was trying to make it look like he wasn't watching. His passenger had no such qualms and was quivering ball of mirth. As he took one more look at me he collapsed in hysterical convulsions which contagiously attacked the driver of the truck. I stood there like a deer in the headlight both sets of cheeks exposed and flaming until the longest five seconds of my life was up and they were gone.
Field of Diamonds
Today 149.8 Total 8838.3
I woke to frost on the tent but with all my layers on and my fancy down sleeping bag I was quite cosy. The day started out very foggy and with the heavy frost coating everything it was a world of white. When the fog burned off I was treated to one of the most beautiful sights I have ever seen. I was riding past a field of tall grass. Each blade was coated in thick frost and as I rode it created a prismatic shimmer of thousands of tiny dots of red, green, purple and blue. When I stopped it was a white field but as I rode it was alive with colour. It was so sublimely beautiful it actually made me teary. I tried taking some pictures but they didn't even begin to do it justice. If this flower could say buurrr.
Break in the Weather
Today 146.6 Total 8563.7
Oct 11 2007
Today 124.8 Total 8688.5
Thanks for all the great comments. A hug was just what I needed. I found the cutest little kitten and molested it. That made me feel much better.
It has been beautiful but cold the last two days. Frosty in the mornings but warming up to about ten degrees with a tail-wind and bluebird skies.
Tuesday, October 9, 2007
Holiday Monday
Today 110?
well I totally forgot it was a Turkey time and that nothing would be open. Phebea's brakes went from spongy to darn near gone by mid-morning so I hitch hiked into Cornerbrook. The gentleman who picked me up dropped me at a hotel right across the street from the bike shop. So technically I only biked about 30 km the other 80 km was in a truck. It is cold. I was wearing everything warm I own and I was shivering away. When the brakes went I was very ready to come home. I called Flip and told him to book me a flight from Cornerbrook I'm done thank-you very much. If the guy in the truck had dropped me at the airport I would have happily boarded the first flight. Now that I've had a warm bath and am sitting in a cozy room I'm keen again (sort of). We will see. I'll find our what is going on with my bike and I'll see if I can find some warmer clothes. This is going to put me back a few days. I originally wanted to be home for Thanksgiving, then it was the 15th now I thinking my new song is "I'll be Home for Christmas."
Newfoundland
Today 110 Total
Sleeping on the ferry did nothing to improve how my neck was feeling neither did the 70 km blasts that greeted when I got off the ferry. It took me two and half hours to do the first 17km of my ride today. The wind was steady at about 50 km which had me creeping along in my granny gear. The blasts would knock me off the road. I was just so happy to be in my last province. It was cold and raining. The whole time I was riding I was doing the '9 more days' mantra. I couldn't believe the number of rainbows I saw today. I must have seen a least seven. From the part arch, to a huge full half circle to a few smaller closer to the ground arches. It was kind of neat.
Phebeas brakes are feeling kind of spongy so I'm hoping to make it to Cornerbrook tomorrow to have them checked out.
Nut Bar
Today 137.9 Total 8288.1
Well what a night. the wind was howling and my tarp at one particularly bad gust blew apart. It shredded down the one end and flung all the pegs on the one side of the hammock everywhere. Three in the morning and I'm hunting for brownish pieces of wire with a headlamp on. I never did find all of them. I took the tarp off and replaced it with the original hammock tarp and slept like a baby rocked to sleep until 7:00.
Well I found the fall colours they were on the east side of the trail. Breath taking views and hills.
I managed to make it to the Newfoundland Ferry just after dark. At one point I was coming down a hill a whopping 8% and it felt positively flat after the monsters I had done. Perspective is a wonderful thing.
Cabot Trail
Today 102.2 Total 8150.2
I tend to have a bit of a jaded view of road based on what people tell me. It seems everyone I meet has the biggest and worst hill in Canada. So when I was have breakfast in Cheticamp and they were warning me about the hills I smiled and reassured them that I had done the Rockies and several other passes in BC.
The Rockies don't even compare to the Cabot Trail. The Cabot Trail wins hands down as the most intense ride I have experienced on the trip. I was riding down things that would have made ski hills jealous.
It was very windy most of the day. It seemed to be on my back going up the hills, which was a blessing but coming down you never knew which way it was going to slap you from. And did it slap you. I was coming down one section of road that was very steep and I was going way to fast when one of the gust slapped me. I was sure I was going down. All I could think was this was really going to hurt. I don't know how I managed it but I stayed up but in the process I whiplashed my neck. I was just so thankful to have most of my skin still attached to my body that I didn't care.
I had hoped to make it to Broad Cove but based on what I did I'm proud I made it to South Harbour. I'm staying at a little campsite called Hidden Cove very pretty right on the ocean. They have tried to give me a spot sheltered from the wind but it is still pretty gusty here.
Monday, October 8, 2007
Cabot Trail Here I Come
Today 128.9 Total 8048.0
It rained last night so I was very careful riding along. the road was wet and with the morning light the glare was blinding me so I knew that I would be invisible to the traffic. The hills started today. Not much in the way of fall colours but a very pretty ride none the less. I found a beautiful stealth spot just off the ocean. I watched the sunset over the ocean as the waves pounded the shore below me. It was achingly beautiful.
Nova Scotia
Today 136.7 Total 7793.6
I learned my lesson in PEI. I made sure I got the biggest thickest tourist book for Nova Scotia. What's open and what's not. There are surprisingly few things closed here. I think it is because of the Celtic Colour's festival they are having in Cape Breton this weekend. I caught the last ferry off PEI and crept my way in the pitch dark to the campground it was only three km but the headlight does little more than warn cars that you are there and let you brace for the bumps Anyone who has skied with a headlamp knows the feeling. (Can you say December sweeps). I was whistling as I rode and scared something big back into the bushes. I could hear it crashing along. It was running away so I was happy.
Oct 3 2007
Today 125.5 Total7919.1
A beautiful day for riding. Warm with a good tailwind. I stopped in Pictou to do some blogging at a UPS store. I got all set up, camera card out, ready to go when the girl at the desk said, "You did see our rate sheet?" I looked up. $20 an hour. I'm glad she pointed that out. I thanked her and left.
I was in desperate need of a laundromat and luckily the campground at Linwood had one. I hate wasting two hours staring at the laundry go around in the middle of the day. I don't mind if I can blog at the same time but that is extremely rare. Two hours of riding that's twenty-thirty km. My life has been reduced to thinking of how many km I could have done while doing something else. It's getting harder and harder to stop in the middle of the day for anything other than food.
PEI
The Confederation Bridge
Oct 1 2007
Today 155.0 Total 7650.9
I would really like to come back here during the summer some year. I found it very frustrating place to visit on the bike. I had planned on using this a touring aimless day but everywhere I went all the signs would be up guiding me to a place only to get there and have a closed sign on the gate. I spent the whole day riding and saw nothing but trees and potato farms. It was a very tiring and frustrating day. I couldn't even find anywhere open to eat. I'm glad I carry so much food now.
Chez Les Maury
Today 150.7 Total 7272.9
I stealth camped last night. It was windy and rainy when I set up camp so I crawled right into bed. It was only about 7:00. I woke to bright light I felt well rested so I got up. It was the moon light. I checked my watch, it was two in the morning. I lay there for a bit wide awake I figured being a Friday night Flip would still be up so I called him. We talked for about an hour. When I hung up with him I called Sheri (she's working nights) and we talked for an hour. Sometimes cell phones are great to have. I kept hearing noises in the bush after that. Just me being a little spooked. So I was up and on the road by 6:00. It was still as dark as midnight. So I took it easy and every time I heard a car I jumped off the road.
It was a nice riding at that time of the day hardly any traffic. I had a skunk trot across the road in front of me and then a couple km later a red fox darted across and stopped a stared at me going by. I saw my first moose since Alberta. She saw me and gangled her way at a fast trot into the bush. Good girl was what I was thinking.
The area is very Accadian. Flags every where and the Accadian star on houses. I found a little campground that was still open. They also had a small winery called Chez Les Maury. Everyone here speaks French but they don't treat you like you've just soiled yourself in public if you speak English to them. A very friendly and open group of people. They had just had their grape harvest that day so it was very festive. They had different family members up singing and playing guitar. After some wine drinking there were sing-alongs and dancing. Unfortunately with my very early start to the morning I couldn't make it past 9:00 but I would wake periodically and hear them into the wee hours.
New Brunswick
After the events of the day before I figured I needed a rest day on Campbellton. I took the day off and basically got caught up on all my blogging. Did the computer shuffle all day two free hours in the library, some time at the visitor center and then I snuck into the employment center and got a few hours in there. If I ever do a trip like this again I'm bring something so I can type everything up ahead of time and then just download when I can. It seems like most rest days are spent on the computer.
Sept 28 2007
Today 129.2 Total 7122.2
I was still in a bit of a funk and the foggy misty day did little to improve my disposition. I usually like to ride with out my music but sometimes on long stretches it's nice. I love how sometimes songs can be the perfect catalyst to change a mood. I was riding along all melancholy was Fleetwood Mac came on. Soon I was laughing and bellowing along.
"If you wake up and don't want to smile, If it takes just a little while, Open your eyes and look at the day, You'll see things in a different way.
Don't stop, thinking about tomorrow, Don't stop, it'll soon be here, It'll be better than before, Yesterday's gone, yesterday's gone.
Why not think about times to come, And not about the things that you've done, If your life was bad to you, Just think what tomorrow will do.
Dont stop, thinking about tomorrow, Dont stop, it'll soon be here,It'll be, better than before, Yesterday's gone, yesterdays gone.
All I want is to see you smile, If it takes just a little while, I know you don't believe that it's true, I never meant any harm to you.
Dont stop, thinking about tomorrow,Dont stop, itll soon be here,Itll be, better than before,Yesterday's gone, yesterday's gone."
Picture me riding along literally hollering "whooooooooo Don't you look back, whoooooooo Don't you look back."
This is why I don't see moose.
Wednesday, October 3, 2007
Two Weeks Left
I'm having a hard time finding Internet connections and don't expect it to get any easier. I'm in Nova Scotia now and am on my way up the Cabot Trail so I don't expect to find any connections up there. I think it will take me three to four days to do the Trail. After that I head to Newfoundland. I figure it will take me nine days to go up, over and around. So two more weeks and I'll be done. I'm physically well but emotionally tired. I've really enjoyed my trip but I'm ready to be back with my family. Phil has been a great support group keeping me focused. I will update properly later.
Thursday, September 27, 2007
Stranger in a Strange Land
Sept 26 2007
It has been a very strange day.
I want to start with a rebuttal that I had been working on. It was all about the rude french man you hear so much about. In the two weeks I was in Quebec I hadn't met him. Everyone I had met had been thoughtful, helpful and genuine. From the woman who brought me coffee that rainy morning, to the gentleman who drove me town when I had a flat tire.
My rebuttal was all about the rude Frenchman you hear so much about and how I travelled high and low through Quebec and never met him well I've deleted that post.
I left Saybec early and was trying to get to New Brunswick. I was travelling through Amqui when I broke a rear spoke. My first thought was great I'm in a town so I can get it fixed. The wheel immediately had a huge wobble in the tire so I got off the bike. A middle aged woman was walking down the street toward me so I said, "Excusa moi sil vous plait." That was as far as I got she threw me the dirtiest look and crossed the street so she didn't have to be near me. OK then. So I carried on down the street and found some work men up on a scaffolding. They were helpful. It turns out I was only two stores away from the shop but here is the kicker. It was in the back of the building and completely unmarked. So the front of the building looked like just a sport clothing store. So with my limited french and their non-existent English I just knew a right at the lights and two houses. So I was actually standing in the parking lot of this building looking around kind of baffled when a guy in a pickup truck showed up. He spoke the most English of anyone in the town that I would meet.
He began apologizing for his countryman saying I had been mislead and he is so embarrassed and if I just get in the pickup with him he will drive me because the bike shop is "way far away." The alarm bells in my head immediately went into four alarm blaze mode something about this guy wasn't ringing true. They say language is 20 % verbal and the rest is body language and I truly believe that. The more I insisted I could walk the harder he tried to get me in his vehicle. He finally gave up and left.
After getting two more sets of good directions that I misinterpreted and several blocks of going back and forth I was getting very frustrated with myself, my language skills and my situation. Finally one older guy took pity on me and walked me to the back of the store and into the repair shop. At this point all that I could think about was where the hell creepy guy with the pickup had planned on taking me.
The older gentleman began talking to the man in the shop. He showed him the spoke and I don't know what was said but like I said language is more body language than words and it was clear the owner had no intention of helping me. The old man looked embarrassed I thanked him very much in my poor french and he left. The owner and I then did a series of pantomimes back and forth. He was insistent that I could ride the 100 km to Cambellton and I was insistent that I couldn't. I He kept saying no mechanic. So I asked if I could use his shop as it was pouring rain outside. I received a very firm no. I was outside his shop in the pouring rain with limited tools trying to replace the spoke. I carry three extras. I took the wheel down as much as I could and tried threading it through but it came out a mangled mess. So back into the repair shop I went. I was going to buy every tool I had to to get this thing fixed. He didn't have the tools to sell me but I guess I out stubborned him because it turns there was a mechanic on duty...him. It turns out he spoke a surprising amount of very good English. So me being me I'm making small talk while he's working when he turns to me and said very curtly "I don't speak English." So I shut-up but in my head I thinking not that you can't it's that you don't. He was still repairing the spoke when another gentleman brought his bike into be serviced. No problem just leave it over there. I'm still smiling but inside I was just seething.
So bike finally repaired, two hours later, I was on my way. I had small water bottle in the back pocket of my shirt. It was about two-thirds empty so it was quite light. It was still raining as I rode by a group of men doing construction on a house just at the edge of town. I was bumping along when one of the guys kind of yelled and kind of waved I smiled, waved and carried on. It turns out the small water bottle had fallen out of the back of my shirt and they were trying to tell me about it. One of the guys got down off the roof, got in his car and flagged me down to tell I had lost my water bottle. What a great gesture. Unfortunately he was speaking really fast so I couldn't understand him so I said to him in french that I didn't understand could he please speak slowly. He became very agitated and began to actually speak faster. I put it down to his frustration with the language. He became more and more agitated and then drove away. I shrugged it off. I was still puzzling my way through his original sentence when I reached for my water bottle and clued in to what he had been saying. After dealing with creeping guy and then the arrogance of the bike shop owner I was profoundly grateful for this gesture. I saw this guy put his brakes and turn back around towards me. He drove up beside me. I had my thank-you organized in my head when he started talking again. It turns out he wasn't frustrated with the language, he was disgusted with the fact that I was English. Using a few hand gestures and a couple words of English it seems that I wasn't too beneath him to be well...beneath him. Then when he was done the rest of the crew could have a go at me. I was so shocked that such a thoughtful gesture could turn to one of sexual violence because of the language I spoke it took me a minute to respond. Using a few hand gestures of my own and a few of the words of English I knew he knew I let him know what I thought of his proposal. He just sat there laughing. Funniest thing on earth. That is as close to bear spraying anyone that I have come. But I thought if the police were as bigoted and backward as some the men I had met in town I would be a great-gramma before I was released for harming one of their golden boys. It was the first time on the entire trip that I felt truly and utterly alone. I honestly felt like I had been 'Twilight Zoned' into the Middle East. I never actually felt like he was going to act on his threat. It was done to demoralize and well done I was completely demoralized.
He drove away, still laughing, and I just wanted to go home. I stood there all weepy and then I got pissed right off no way were a bunch of jerks going to make me give up on my dream. That said I rode like hell and just about cried when I got into New Brunswick.
The saddest thing about this is I met so many great and thoughtful people in Qubec and this is the incident that most people (myself included) will remember.
2nd Class Citizen
Another thing is the Quebec drivers have been fantastic. If I get hit by a car here it will be because I'm so busy gawking around at the old houses that I'm wobbling around like a sailor on his third day of shore leave.
The strangest thing is it cost the same to camp here as it does to stay in some of the Auberges. I spent the night of the 24th at a provincial campground. It was almost $35.00 plus tax. Plus I had to pay for my showers. I was the only person in a tent I was also the only person using the showers and public toilet so as a result I was situated 10 min walking distance away from it. This was the closest camping spot to it. If you picture a dart board with the washrooms being the bull's eye. The 25 point section was where the full hook-ups and 40 amp service was. The next closest section out to the triple mark was full hook-up and the 30 amp service, from the double-in mark was water service. Then to get where the no service sites are lob a shot that sticks half way down the wall to the floor and that's where I was camped. The closest light to me was a five minute walk away. It would have cost me $10 more to be closer. If I hadn't needed a shower so bad I just would have carried on and stealth camped.
So I get my camp set up and walk back to the washrooms for a well earned shower. The washroom was set up in the typical L shaped configuration with the door and very small window at one end and the showers at the very far end. Like I said I am the only person using the showers everyone else is in huge motorhomes and 5th wheels. So I get in the shower cubicle putter around getting everything in order towel, shampoo, clothes, quarters etc. I strip off and throw the first quarter in and wait for the water to heat up. It takes the second quarter until I can get in the water I just get lathered up and the lights go out.
Now two thoughts go through my mind one whoo hoo the power has gone out and I'm going to have the longest 25 cent shower ever and two some physco was up to no good. So I'm trying to wash up and its darker than the inside of cow. So instead of the great long shower I had envisioned I end up hurrying through my shower in case it was a power outage and the hot water turned cold. So I dry off in the pitch black, dress half damp in the pitch black, gather everything up and feel my way down the hallway to the other end of the L where the sinks are and bink the lights come back on. They are motion sensor activated. There are times when I say some very un-lady-like things.
So the night of the 25th I spent at in a Auberge in Saybec very pretty little town, with very friendly town folk. Same price my own room, a TV, free bath, and they let me do a load of laundry.
Riches to Ditches
Today 140.4 total 6765.0
It was low so it was out of the wind. Mostly. It was comfortable. Except for the rock in my back.
It is amazing the difference a day can make. I've remarked on this before. One night a soft bed, the next hard ground; down comforter- down sleeping bag; five fluffy pillows-pillows???; silky sexy lingerie-wool long undies and socks, meow; night companion my favorite person to cuddle with-a skunk wandering by my tent. Who's having fun now baby.
On the Road Again
Last view of the city.
Quebec City
night lights
The next day we took a guided tour our guides name was Jacques. he was great very informative without sugar coating, or getting into fables.
The night life was pretty low key but Phil and I found a little hole in the wall that we quite enjoyed.
It was literally a hole in the wall. The roof was only about 7 ft tall. You can see behind the the bar sign the bed rock. They had a guy playing guitar doing a-sing-along it was a lot of fun.
It was lit up with candles. My sister used to work at a bar and she used to tell us about ugly lights. Where last call comes and you throw the lights on and you see how ugly everyone actually is. Here they slowly began blowing all the candles out. Phil thinks the French have it right.Looking down the barrel of a cannon at the Citadal.
Street preformers during dinner one night. Dinner and a show.
And the favorite thing I saw in Quebec.
Saturday, September 22, 2007
Alone in Montreal
The cobblestones look great but they can just about shake a kidney loose when you're riding on them.
At one of the churches
Downtown
Copernicus at the Observatory.
After buzzing around downtown I rode though McGill and then up to Mount Royal.
Who's having a good time?
OK the traditional pose at Mount Royal.
On my way down I took a different route and found a whole herd of people dressed up in medieval costumes having war games, tight rope walking, and a whole group of drummers. Very much a festival atmosphere with people smoking grass, swilling beer and wench groping.
Look Daniel does have a brother in spirit if not in blood.
Apparently they do this every Sunday.
I did not know what to do for dinner so I asked at the hostel. They suggested that I take the metro and go to the Latin Quarter. Lots of great restaurants. Well I took a wrong turn and ended up at a little dive with great food, huge portions while watching people coming in out of the exotique cinèma, across the street with privè cabine, ouvert 24, 7 jour, all in big neon letters.